Schiaparelli's latest collection reimagines couture&rsquo;s golden era, with prewar ribbons and inspired silhouettes. Creative Director Daniel Roseberry becomes fashion's Icarus.

<a href="https://lofficielusa.org/fashion-week/every-look-from-schiaparelli-s-fall-2024-couture-show" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Schiaparelli</a> kicked off <a href="https://lofficielusa.org/fashion-week/valentino-fall-winter-2021-haute-couture-show-photos-video" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Haute Couture Week</a> in Paris with an unforgettable <a href="https://lofficielusa.org/beauty/spring-summer-2025-runway-hair-trends" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Spring/Summer 2025</a> collection that proves, once again, why Creative Director <a href="https://lofficielusa.org/fashion/daniel-roseberry-schiaparelli-fashion-designer-an-american-in-paris">Daniel Roseberry</a> is such a couture force to be reckoned with. For the latest reveal that's named after Icarus&mdash;a Greek mythology character who flew too close to the sun and died&mdash;Roseberry soars without falling, delivering a collection that embodies a deep, instinctive knowledge about the female form and fashion history, including during wartime.
Making this collection, Roseberry revealed in his show notes, started in a Parisian antique shop, where he looked at an assortment of ribbons from the 1920s and '30s. "Before the war, many of these ribbons were created in Lyon, and shipped around the world. But when Germany invaded France, many of these spools of ribbon were hidden away, lost for a period to history," he added. In the collection, Roseberry seeks to unveil what modernity in fashion really means, using prewar, Lyon-made ribbons (in hues of butter, saffron, faded peacock green, and burnt saffron) as a vehicle. This inspired the Spring/Summer 2025 season's intricate details.
On the runway, held at Paris' Petit Palais, silhouettes nodded to iconic couturiers like Madame Gr&egrave;s, Charles Frederick Worth, and Paul Poiret, to name a few. Nude-colored and sheer gowns hung off the body with an asymmetrical weight. Trompe l&rsquo;oeil pearls covered bustier dresses while S-shaped jackets made a case for Schiaparelli's fine tailoring. From snaky curves embroidered with luxurious Japanese bugle beads to the dramatic, sharp hip blades molded from French corset toile, each design transformed the models into ethereal beings, exuding a divine, otherworldly allure.&nbsp;

Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2025. Photography courtesy of Schiaparelli.

"I&rsquo;m so tired of everyone constantly equating modernity with simplicity: Can&rsquo;t the new also be worked, be baroque, be extravagant? Has our fixation on what looks or feels modern become a limitation? Has it cost us our imagination?" Roseberry asked in his show notes, challenging prevailing notion about what modernity in fashion means today.
Beyond the war-touched ribbons, Roseberry was inspired by what he calls the "liquid deco" silhouettes of the 1920s and 1930s. He captured couture&rsquo;s golden past through materials like delicate silks and Japanese bugle bead embroidery. It was evident in the shape of clothing too, like bias cut dresses and prewar jackets by Elsa Schiaparelli. On the runway, models <a href="https://lofficielusa.org/fashion/kendall-jenner-suede-hermes-birkin-double-lapel-blazer-outfit-paris-haute-couture-week-2025" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Kendall Jenner</a>, Alex Consani, and <a href="https://lofficielusa.org/fashion/jacquemus-fall-winter-2021-la-montaigne-kendall-jenner-bella-hadid" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Mona Tougaard</a> shut it down, keeping the celebrity-filled audience in awe, including guests like Gabrielle Union and Kelly Rutherford.
"Haute Couture is by definition a quest for perfection. Every&nbsp; season can feel like a quixotic struggle, a climb, to reach an ever-higher level of execution and&nbsp; vision. But we do it&mdash;I do it&mdash;for you, our viewers, our clients, our passionate followers," continued in his show notes, before concluding his thoughts with an Icarus-themed finale. "Haute Couture aspires to reach great heights; it promises escape from our complicated reality. It also reminds us that perfection comes at a price. How high can we couturiers go? As high as the sun&mdash;and the Gods&mdash;allow us."
Click through the gallery below to see every look from <a href="https://lofficielusa.org/fashion/history-of-maison-schiaparelli-elsa-schiaparelli-shocking-pink-daniel-roseberry" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Schiaparelli</a> Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2025 collection below.&nbsp;

Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2025. Photography courtesy of Schiaparelli.

Schiaparelli Has War on Its Conscience for Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2025

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L'OFFICIEL HOMMES USA October 2024 - Rupert Friend Cover

L'OFFICIEL HOMMES USA October 2024 - Joseph Quinn Cover

L'OFFICIEL USA September 2024 - Fall Fashion Cover Featuring Supermodel Sasha Pivovarova

L'OFFICIEL USA June 2024 - Nicole Kidman Cover

L'OFFICIEL USA June 2024 - Megan Thee Stallion Cover

L'OFFICIEL USA May 2024 - Jackson Wang Cover

L'OFFICIEL USA May 2024 - Natalie Portman Cover

Schiaparelli Has War on Its Conscience for Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2025

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