Creative Director Rebekka Bay reveals the motives behind these choices and how the brand is leaning further into denim.

Marimekko surprised its guests at <a href="https://lofficielusa.com/tags/copenhagen-fashion-week">Copenhagen Fashion Week</a>. The Finnish brand, known for its bright prints and joyful colors, opened its Fall/Winter 2025 show with a series of chromatically mute looks. But ash grey jackets and black-white striped dresses were only a prelude before the runway exploded with color. The brand's signature rouge is a poignant hue throughout the clothes, whether juxtaposed with gold or with royal purples, depending on the garment.
"It's winter, and we want to layer up, and we want to work into more cozy materials. It's like all colors are being soaked out of nature... either the ground is covered by snow or there are no leaves on the tree. Everything becomes almost more mineral and sculptural looking," Marimekko Creative Director Rebekka Bay tells L'OFFICIEL of her desire to use bright colors for cold weather wardrobes. This is what inspired the punchy hues and patterns, in addition to unexpected color combinations, in the autumnal collection. "There's one dead side to the season, and then, of course, there's also the celebrations and the occasions," she continued.
For Fall/Winter 2025, the brand leaned into its usual five-petal <a href="https://lofficielusa.org/tags/floral">floral</a> prints, including those from its archives (like the Unikko) and those inspired by German photographer Karl Blossfeldt's body of work. Flower-inspired prints may be most popular in spring and summer, but Bay makes the case for their staying power when all the real flowers have lost their petals. Her reach for monochromatic ensembles and neutrals, she says, might reflect a collective conscious gesture towards softness.
"If the world feels a little harsh, then I think we're seeking something comforting. And I think browns are much more comforting and softer [about them]," she said. "So we're working all the way from sort of camels, tobaccos, bitter chocolates, and coffee."
In a time where fashion feels replete with more revealing clothes (like sheer dresses and cutout pieces), Marimekko leaned into its own flavor of modesty. On the runway, models wore cozy knit sets, puffer bomber jackets, grey wash denim (adding to the <a href="https://www.marimekko.com/us_en/collection/marimekko-maridenim">brand's debut blue jeans</a> from 2024), midi skirts (one of Bay's favorite styles from the collection), and sack dresses. Despite the brand's <a href="https://www.marimekko.com/us_en/collection/karla-bag-series">Karla bag</a> being one of its most popular right now, the handbag was nowhere to be found on the runway. In fact, styling this season relied on a singular focus on the clothes, opting out of showing too much in the brand's other categories or leaning into current trends like bag charm stacking.
Click through the gallery below to see every look from Marimekko Fall/Winter 2025.

Marimekko Fall/Winter 2025. Photography by James Cochrane courtesy of Marimekko.

Photography by Jere Viinikainen, courtesy of Marimekko.

Marimekko Revels in Unexpected Color Combinations and Patterns for Fall/Winter 2025

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Marimekko Revels in Unexpected Color Combinations and Patterns for Fall/Winter 2025

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